Saturday, April 14, 2012

I'll know it when I see it

I will skip through more than thirty songs on my iPod’s shuffle mode before finding something I want to listen to.  
In the past three days I’ve visited four different gourmet restaurants, none of which I am going to include on my website for innovative gastronomy in Bogotá. 
In the market I buy one of each fruit, even though it’s more expensive than buying a pound of just one or two varieties. 
I don’t watch movies because the thought of dedicating two hours to just one thing overwhelms me with indecision. 
My boots have holes in them and my purse has a broken strap but, despite dozens of fashion retail stores on my street, I haven’t found adequate replacements. 

I have a problem.  It might be ADD.  Or just general neurosis.  There are two general ways of diagnosing this psychosis:
A.  Fear of failure.  The word “settle” makes me sick to my stomach and the thought of precious minutes of life being vacuumed away by something less than amazing is depressing.  This phobia of making the “wrong” choice or “wasting” time renders me incapable of choosing any one thing and makes me a compulsive mind-changer. 

B. High confidence in my own judgement.  I am guarding an inexplicable nugget of faith in the existence of the Ideal (and my ability to find it).   I cannot seem to outgrow the romantic--perhaps naïve--notion that somewhere out there, there is the perfect song, the best movie, the coolest restaurant and the Cinderella shoes.  Until I find it I will go buzzing about my life picking and poking sporadically at a little bit of everything like a bumble bee on amphetamines.

I could claim that my lack of emotional attachments results from a pursuit of Nirvana through the Eight Fold Path of disassociation with the material world... but I am actually just a robot.  Where normal people feel grief and anxiety when separating from familiar environments and relationships, I see each opportunity as a California roll on the sushi conveyor belt of life, to be taken (if appetizing enough), experienced and enjoyed until moving on to the tempura and edamame.  This is not easy to explain to humans.  

My friends are confused as to why I would want to leave an amazing city with fabulous people and move to a state where I don’t even have any family.  My colleagues wonder why I would abandon the opportunity to make a more-than-decent salary in order to go to a place where I don’t have a job (yet) and will likely pay over $800 in rent.  A person who I care deeply for doesn’t understand why I seem unaffected by our impending separation.  I ask myself what it is, exactly, that I’m looking for... 

The answer is I don’t know.  But I’ll know it when I see it. 

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Third time's a charm

(This will reflect poorly on me...)

In Colombia phones like mine are known as flechas (arrows) because "cada Indio tiene uno" (every Indian’s got one).  (That might be racist.)  My phone is the cheapest you can find, but it is trustier than a Swiss Army knife.  Transitioning from my emailing/scrabble-playing/mind-reading smart phone was hard at first, but I have grown to love my little flecha.  Although recently I’ve been a little careless with her...

INSTANCE #1: The Nameless Hero
Shoot, I’m going to be late, I realized when my watch alarm went off and I was still in my house.  I reached into my jacket pocket to send a text apologizing for my delay and my fingers grasped at empty fabric.   My other hand instinctively went through the routine patting sequence: jeans pockets, back pockets, backpack side pocket.  No dice.  My eyes were simultaneously executing Operation Cross-Check darting from the dining table, to the desk, to the pile of laundry on the floor.  Nada. My brain was replaying the previous two hours in reverse, scanning the mental recordings for clues as to the last known location of my phone.  To no avail.

So I asked my roommate to call my phone to see if I could hear it ring somewhere and to my surprise, someone answered.  It was a boy, or a man, or an adolescent-ish male.  It was pouring down rain outside but I told him I would bike to the gas station near where he was to recover the phone.  On the way I bought a giant chocolate bar and some other candies and prepared myself to even flirt a little with the kid for being the savior of my social and professional communication life.  

I waited on the corner, getting drenched by passing buses until he appeared, phantom like, on his bike.  I hardly let him get a word out before I started gushing my thanks and appreciation.  He shyly accepted my gifts and then pedaled away, disappearing silently into the rain. 


INSTANCE #2
I don’t particularly like malls, but I needed some alone time outside the house and it was 9:30pm on a Sunday so everything else was closed.  Other than the fluorescent lighting and echoey music, the lounge couches set up outside the stores are comfortable enough, if for nothing else than their anonymity.  The mall-ies are so entranced by the lights and colors gleaming from the store fronts that my sofa island in the middle of the wide hallway is like a room of two-way mirrors, me looking out and everyone else seeing right through me.

I had been ensconced in my invisibility bubble for almost an hour before a middle aged man strode right up to me and popped it.  
“Excuse me,” he said with a strange grin, “Are you American?”
Really?, I thought.  Here I am, minding my own business on a mall couch at 10:30 at night and this guy is going to come ask me to give his daughter English classes. 
“Yes,” I said, smiling in a plastic way that I hoped was conveying polite noninterest in this conversation. 
“Do you speak English?”  
I knew it. “Yes...”
“Do you have a cell phone?” 
This guy meant business.  “Yes...”
“Did you use the bathroom on the second floor a while ago?”  
Now I was confused, and slightly creeped out.  How long had this guy been stalking me just to ask me about speaking English? “Um, yes... Why?”
“What is your phone like?”

All of the sudden a light bulb went off in my head.  I saw the flashback of me setting my phone on the back table of the bathroom stall.  I suddenly became much more friendly with the man, who--although dressed in normal clothes--had a curly chord coming from an earpiece that I hadn’t noticed earlier. 

“Oh, yes! It’s small and black and really cheap looking.  Did you find it?”

He explained to me that a woman had found it in the restroom and turned it in.  He noticed it was all in english so he reviewed the security cameras looking for a gringa (apparently I was the only blonde person in the mall that night) and he tracked me down. 

After signing a few forms and chatting--recounting the events leading up to our encounter, talking about Colombia, etc--he gave me the phone and I said if he or anyone in his family ever needed English classes that he had my number. 

INSTANCE #3: El Sequestro
I dialed my number and listened hopefully for a vibration sound to buzz from a hidden corner somewhere in my room.  The ringing tone sounded flatly in the speaker, but the room was silent.  I felt a drop of dread.  Then suddenly,

“Hello?” 
“Hello, hi!” I stammered, caught of guard.  “Um, I think you have my phone.” Stating the obvious. 

I was immediately relieved that the voice was an older woman, surely a mother.  I imagined her in a pair of clunky Latin grandma heels walking with quick short strides down 13th street where I had been riding my bike that morning.  I imagined her taking a second glance at what could have been a black rock on the sidewalk and then bending over to see that it was actually the phone that had slipped from my back pocket without my noticing. I imagined her fretting over the pour soul that had lost it and pondering all morning of ways to find the owner.

I asked her where I could meet her to take it off her hands, feeling so lucky and grateful I was already thinking about inviting her to lunch.  She sounded a bit confused about what the next step should be, but then out of the blue she asked, “But how do you plan on thanking me for my honesty?”
“Excuse me?”
“I am a very honest person.”
“Oh.”  I didn’t feel like taking her out to lunch any more.  “You mean money?”

The image of the concerned grandmother in my mind's eye evolved into a Disney villain with a crooked nose and a wart. 

I offered $10.000 pesos which offended her.  She suggested that I take the next hour to reflect and consider what my phone really meant to me.  Click.  

The Disney villain image evolved into a Matriarch Mafiosa smoking a cigar in a dark room, empty except for the leather chair she was sitting in, a table with an old rusty phone, and my cellphone--tied up, gagged, black eyed and bloody nosed.

Sixty minutes later I called her back, with the desire to plead for her to set off the ring tone of my phone so I could hear it, so that I knew it was alive and OK.  
“$15.000.”
“$20.000.”
“Fine.”

We arranged to meet on a public corner in twenty minutes.  No police.  I arrived first, scanning every 50+ female that walked by until finally I saw her--hair perm, nice purse, designer sweater.  You can’t judge a book by its cover but this lady certainly didn’t look like she was in desperate need of $20.000 pesos.  She came accompanied by her crony, another elderly woman, tall and thin with short grey hair and a dignified steel glare that said, “What we are doing is perfectly fair and noble.”

“Do you have my phone?”
“Do you have the money?”
“Show me the phone.”
“You might run away with it.”
And that would be within my right, I wanted to say.  But finally they Crony backed up a few steps, reached into her deep bag and gave me a peek of the ransom victim. 
Then they had the audacity to whip out a handwritten contract promising not to go the cops.  It didn’t mention anything about the black mail fee.  I took the paper and wrote, “This is bullshit and extortion” (in English) on the bottom and put my big official John Hancock underneath. 

We made the exchange.  Before we parted ways I said, “I just hope that if the same thing happens to you someone does you the same favor.”

But, to be honest, the person who needs to learn the lesson is obviously me.  But I think the third time’s the charm. 

Saturday, April 7, 2012

Close Encounters of a different kind, part 2

In the morning at Halem’s house I tried to sleep as long as I could to put off the inevitable morning hug but my bladder, full with the water from the infamous chalice and the four herbal mates we drank during the ceremony the night before, was not collaborating.  In the bathroom there were only two items: a strangled tube of toothpaste and a bottle of "Intimate Feminine Cream" on top of a lidless seatless toilet.  I did not even want to know.

Halem prepared breakfast: a plate of papaya and cucumber arranged in a precise crop circle formation served with cold coffee water (presumably to avoid brain scrambling from the microwave radiation).  He prayed.  We ate.  And then I sneezed.

His atenas perked up like a metal detector over a gold mine.  "Hmm, you are unwell.  I have a present for you.  Come."  Back to the Ceremony Room.  
The curing therapy started with rhythmic finger taps on my face, shoulders and back.  “Is there some pain in here?" he asked, jabbing his pointer into my kidney.  
"Yeah."  Now there is.
"Hmm... I had a feeling."

The tapping evolved into a full body massage.  At that point I was 100% certain that Halem was weird and 95% certain that he was not going to rob, rape or murder me, which are the three most important characteristics of a masseuses.   So despite the apparent awkwardness of the situation, I mentally shrugged my shoulders and enjoyed the free spa treatment.  

“I have another present for you,” he said afterwards.  His abounding generosity was starting to overwhelm me.   He handed me his backpack, grabbed his guitar and signaled for me to follow him as we power-walked to the bus station.  On the bus, I was privileged to listen to conspiracy theories about Princess Diana and stories about chatting it up with Viggo Mortison and hanging out with Manu Chau.  I refrained from asking which of the stories took place in this dimension and which of them occurred on other planets.  

Suddenly: “Close your eyes.”  He huddled me with a side hug and started mumbling something to the universe about love and plants.  Thankfully my previous involvement with evangelicals of the Charismatic flavor has desensitized me to random public prayer. 

Once we arrived at our destination (a little mountain town above Pasto), we convened with a small band of flowy-pants earth people, dreadlocked and pierced, carrying miniature instruments and a box of arroz con leche to sell in the plaza.  Before introducing me to each brother and sister, Halem ceremoniously squirted all of us with his travel-size spray bottle of eucalyptus water.  We sat in a powwow around the table and sang two-chord songs about our product.

“Arroz con leche...Arroz con leche... It’s so delicious and good... For only 1.000 pesos you can have it...”  Conventional poetic rhyme is against their beliefs.



“I like your friends,” I lied at the end of the day. 
“Yeah, they're better when we’re all in the stars together.”

And that is my problem with drugs and religion (in excess). 

In the minds of the hyper-spiritual, the Utopian world takes precedent over this one.   The present reality becomes an inconvenient stepping stone, a mere portal, to the perfect celestial realm.   This world is a boring and sinful place from which one should desire escape.  It is unpsychedelic and unholy.  It is a trap, an illusion, a cage.  And all of the unenlightened people who live within it, unaware of the other-earthly Paradise, are tragic prisoners that need to be rescued.  If the poor souls do not wish to be rescued they are to be pitied, or even condemned. 

But I am not convinced that the addicted or the dogmatic are any more free than the nonbelievers.  

Close Encounters of a different kind

He stared into my soul and passed me the maraca like a priest passing a cracker that is actually the body of Christ.  I did my best to follow his reggae guitar strum pattern and when I messed up I just closed my eyes as if overcome by the spiritual intesity of the music. We were sitting on the floor of a tiny incense-fumigated room in almost pitch darkness, the flickering of a lone candle the only source of light.  This cannot be real.

Actually according to Halem, my host in Pasto (a city in the south of Colombia), it wasn´t real.  Because everything in this Demension is an illusion.  

When I met up with him on a street corner after hitchhikking 200 miles from Quito, he wasted only three minutes on chitchat before diving into his philosophy of alternative metaphysics.  By the time he lead me to his house and ushered me into a low-lit sitting room (the speed of his powerwalk stride matching the speed of his ADD speech), he was already neck deep in the explanation of the entymology of his name--given to him by two mountain shamans who taught him how to use "The Medicine" (San Pedro) to open the portals of his mind.  He pulled some "relaxing seeds" from his pocket and offered me one to chew.  

Halem is 33 years old with a full but well-trimme beard on his face with features revealing the trace of Palestinean blood in his ancestry.  When he dawned his ruana  (a hooded wool poncho), all he lacked was a glowing halo and a pastor´s staff to complete the look that matched his complex perfectly.



"But tell me your tale, little sister.  What's your aura?  What's your path?"  I've been around my fair share of hippies so I know how to handle these kinds of questions.  I spoke vaguely and used words like "journey" and "vibe."  But I hadn't even finished explaining my travel plans when The Prophet felt the abrupt supernatural urge to tell me that I was emanating a water-like energy with a very positive flow.  Over the next four hours I only managed to speak about twelve words, mostly "Hmm..." "Yeah..." and "Thank you."  Despite the one-sidedness of the conversation he managed to intuit quite a lot about me (like that I was full of love and a child of the light), most likely owing to the fact that he had met me in a previous life.  He could tell that I understood well The Nature of Things.

There is a Seinfeld episode where George Castanza gets hired for a job based on his (supposed) ability to understand everything without having anything explained to him.  George and I have no idea what is going on but we can't ask for clarification without giving ourselves away.  Just nod and smile, nod and smile.

"But I note that your physical body is stressed."
"Well I had a pretty long--"
"Come.  I have just the therapy you need."
We darted across the main room and it was then we entered in the dark Ceremony Room.  He closed the door. I heard the unmistakable footsteps of a Colombian mother shuffling around in the main room and suddenly I understood why we were whispering and sneaking around.  Wizardry and the likes are not generally looked upon kindly in Catholic society.

With the flame of the candle he lit a gnarled stick and began waving the smoke in geometric patterns in front of his face.  He arranged the magic rocks around a shimmering chalice of clear liquid and a San Pedro cactus that sat enshrined on a floor rug in between us. Then he asked me if I was ready to fly.

And I said no because plants that alter one's state of mind are bad.  The end.




[THE FOLLOWING ALTERNATE ENDING MAY OR MAY NOT BE TRUE.]

At that moment there were two voices in my head.
Voice 1: "Maintaining lucidity is advantageous in unfamiliar situations (like foreign cities)."
Voice 2: "You'll never know if you don't try..."

I closed my eyes inhaling the acoustic minor chords that floated hypnotically among the mystic white fumes swirling around the room.  On the exhale my heavy-lidded gaze fixed on the chalice. I took the glass with both hands and was surprised by its levity.  It was plastic.  I raised it, the liquid glittering in the shadowy candlelight, and I lowered my head to him in a nod of honor.  Our eyes locked.  I brought the rim slowly to my lips and drank.

It went down smooth... too smooth.  San Pedro is thick, like aloe vera (from what I hear...).  
The chalice was a cup of water.  I was very confused.  But I did not show it.  George Castanza.

Halem was still talking.
"For example, I never knew that the Queen of England was a Reptiliano......."
While he carried on about his visions of the Fourth Dimension his fingers were working to untie the knot of a small artisenal draw-string purse.  Inside of which there was another smaller bag.  Inside of which there was another smaller bag.  Inside of which there was a fine powder that he sprinkled on the flame to make it flash little star sparkles that reminded me of the Fourth of July.  

"I would like to take a moment to thank the Pachamama for bringing you here tonight."  A tear flowed down his cheek into his beard.  "Because--" (voice choke) "I don´t know how much longer I will be here.  The Reptilianos know I'm enlightened and they don't like it."

I wondered how long this could possibly go on.  I considered activating the fake phone call on my phone (my Go-To escape plan for these kind of situations) but I didn't have it in me to break our hyper-spiritual connection for something as banal and wordly as a cell phone.  But the show had gone on long enough.

I let my head roll back as if falling into a reggae-induced trance and waited for him to take a breath in his endless prayer/song/conversation (hard to distinguish the three).  When the moment came, I suddenly resurrected myself to declare that my body had been filled with peace and tranquility and that it was entering into the Unconscious Night Dimension (also known as "Sleep").  He seemed disappointed and somewhat surprised, as if he had been sending me telepathic messages and was just realizing that some of them hadn't gone through properly. 

I changed and brushed my teeth as quickly as was appropriate for the half-conscious zombie state I had declared myself to be in and made a beeline for the bed.  I was intercepted at the last second by an open-armed request for a Soul Hug.  I obliged, awkwardly embracing him while kneeling on the bed.  Three minutes passed.  He was mumbling a prayer in a voice so low and sleepy that the only words I caught were "universe," "mother" and “plants.”

(To be continued...)